Burberry Fall Ready-To-Wear 2018. London Fashion Week

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(Images from Vogue.com All rights)

Christoper Bailey after 17 years with Burberry as their creative officer (and president) bids farewell to the multinational, multi licensed fashion house, run specifically as a conglomerate that produces its own version of fast “designer” fashion.  Started in 1856 by Thomas Burberry as a trench coat apparel, it has been able, and successfully, been able to maintaining a constant fixture throughout its 162 year old legacy.  But, it is all but a nostalgic remnant in representing Burberry’s hall mark pattern designs, to what it once was in its early conception.  These mega corporation fashion houses, which have, in the case of Burberry, have expanded and split into smaller companies, are now run by a collective of CEOs that in turn finance the mega designer brand akin to a venture capitalist expansion.  Aiming more towards emerging markets, more so China and South America as Burberry buys into other smaller (European) luxury brand markets.

Frumpy and frustrated University student inspired collection.  A commercialized backlash which has its roots in a digital media over hype of catch phrases such as “equality” and “rights” movements.  Watered down and resold back into the immaturity of various social media markets, ad hoc and thrift clothing store styles that were at home in counter culture markets 20rs ago, the vast difference is you could piece together an outfit with less than $25 as opposed to Burberry’s “backlash” selling (unaffordable) pitch which is actually not aimed at the tedium of most post adults and all their manufactured fears, but to Asian markets who are curious about the West and all its created market turmoil.  Sloppy fits, post graduate art student paint splashes on oversized and sloppy styles, that falls very short of conceptually projecting a distinct originality.

“Satan” Paradise Lost (John Milton)

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(Gustave Dore D1883.  Image of Satan crossing through “Chaos”  from Paradise Lost)

Despite the religious overtures that is Paradise Lost.  The brilliance of  John Milton’s epic poem is also reflective of the tumultuous period it was published (1667) both politically and socially, for when science was beginning to instill the fact that the Earth is not the center of the Universe and the unlikeliness that an all powerful god had created and sanctioned life on Earth.  The story of Hell, with Chaos in between Heaven above as Earth dangles in the middle – was a fusion of both the antiquated old testament belief of the Geocentric, which was being debated at the time with the new (Milton met Galileo Galilei 1638) theory that we reside within the Heliocentric (Earth, Solar System planets revolve around the Sun).  Still, the rebellious nature and attributes which were of the main character of the story…

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Quote/s: Ikkyū Sōjun

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(Image of Ikkyū Sōjun (1394-1481). By Kawanabe Kyōsai d1889.  Picture from http://thisisjapan.asia. All Rights)

Ikkyu passed away in 1481 at the age of 87.  He died peacefully while seated in an meditative posture.  Before he passed away he told his disciples at the time:

After I’m gone, some of you will seclude yourselves
in the forests and mountains to meditate, while others may
drink rice wine and enjoy the company of women. Both kinds
of Zen are fine, but if some become professional clerics,
babbling about “Zen as the Way,” they are my enemies.

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Gucci – Resort 2018

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(Image from Vogue.  All credit to Gucci. Model: Jehnny Beth from the Savages)

This is appallingly bad.  Any attempt at originality and distinction has been wiped away with a horrific take on 1960s counter culture.  The inept lack of imagination and risk is not even worth mentioning in it’s details, which I won’t even grace an acknowledgment of the actual designer.  Even the ‘laser’ cut clothes via the Gucci empire is so amateurish it’s astounding.

Ok, yes we’re all searching for that renewed counter culture.  For one, it will not come from the Universities as an overblown education system which is a joke.  Drawing from past rebellion holds no relevance for today – you’ll have to think a little harder.  I’ll leave that as an open surmise.  As far as 1970s and 80s counter culture icons.  They must be turning in their graves (if they are dead), or more aware…

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Fortnight quotes – Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

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“Those who understand others are intelligent
Those who understand themselves are enlightened

Those who overcome others have strength
Those who overcome themselves are powerful

Those who know contentment are wealthy
Those who proceed vigorously have willpower

Those who do not lose their base endure
Those who die but do not perish have longevity”

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