(Images from www.kaltblut-magazine.com)
I have just recently heard of Tobias Birk Nielsen, from what is described on the designer’s website bio: “TOBIAS BIRK NIELSEN FOUNDED IN 2016. BY FORMER BORIS BIDJAN SABERI, BARCELONA & WOOD WOOD, COPENHAGEN JUNIOR DESIGNER” Which is apparent as the main influences seen with Nielsen’s collections are from the designer Boris Bidjan Saberi’s (for all my reviews re: Boris Bidjan Saberi please refer https://chiasmusadrianglass.wordpress.com/?s=boris) stylized take on science fiction and post globalism aesthetics, with his fashion inspired vision of a compressed urban dystopia – and the new fashions that will evolve, motivated by it’s city landscapes. Nielsen, with his Autumn/Winter 2017/2018 collection has followed suit to the Saberi theme.
Titled ‘Violent Situations’, Tobias Birk Nielsen has created a visual and sociological analysis, via fashion in relation to violence. And since, the aspects of violence within our society has become more pronounced, more so from religious extremism, through to the polarization of global discord, which can be attributed as a failure to rein in over-expansive governments. The overall systemic break down of a globalised society is all but inevitable. To be replaced by the individual and his/her quest to survive . The ‘Violent Situations’ collection, from what I can see, holds that focused style of the survivalist. Hoddies, coats and vests adored with a monochromatic patchwork (photographs) – which works very well on coats and jackets. As it creates an ambiguity with it’s obscured imagery, set as a backdrop to the clothing piece. The color palette, apart from the camouflage, for this collection, once again, holds a Boris Bidjan Saberi influence with it’s neutral and achromatic colors.
A solid beginning for Tobias Birk Nielsen, overtime, hopefully, the young designer will develop the originality and distinction that a fashion designer needs, to offset the inundation of so many clothing brands – that on the most part lack originality.
*As a side note, seen on Kaltblunt magazine, was the accompanying Prolog for the ‘Violent Situations’ collection. Which I though was very well written.