According to Deux Hommes, the sculptor Frank Cota was an influence for David Koma’s fall/winter collection for London Fashion Week. This may explain the rigidness to his 2017 range, as it reflects a tightly wound and restrictive array . An overplay of using modernist style structural influences which are rigid by definition. What does work well is a combination of using a free-flowing cuts over ‘brutalist’ or modernist styles . This collection unfortunately utilizes the whole influence, metallic ornaments woven into skirts and tops, unyielding asymmetrical cuts, at times revealing a geometric pattern work. Not to forget the metal zips on display, which can cheapen outfits in a split second.
Doesn’t thrill me.