David Koma Fall/Winter 2016/2017 Collection London Fashion Week

According to Deux Hommes, the sculptor Frank Cota was an influence for David Koma’s fall/winter collection for London Fashion Week. This may explain the rigidness to his 2017 range, as it reflects a tightly wound and restrictive array .  An overplay of using modernist style structural influences which are rigid by definition.  What does work well is a combination of using a free-flowing cuts over ‘brutalist’ or modernist styles .  This collection unfortunately utilizes the whole influence, metallic ornaments woven into skirts and tops, unyielding asymmetrical cuts, at times revealing a geometric pattern work.  Not to forget the metal zips on display, which can cheapen outfits in a split second.

Doesn’t thrill me.


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