(Images from: http://www.copenhagenfashionweek.com )
Within the confines of current Avant-Garde fashion and the narrow spectrum of black or white (achromatic) with it’s various shades of gray. There are limitations. Since the pallet has been set inclusively from Black, the designer then has to push the boundaries with his/her designs. That also includes presentation on the runway. Barbara Gongini certainly is carving her own niche with her clothes, but it’s not pretty, she is looking for evocation, reaction. An almost anti-fashion aesthetic, which in some ways is what avant garde fashion is, a rebellious selling point against the rigidity of industry establishment. Which has to be respected, this is the evolution of style, it also sets a precedence for pushing newer looks and designs. Gongini is most likely ahead of the pack, due to such distinctness and originality.
Accessories, in my opinion, are essential in completing cutting edge clothes, in-which she works oversized ‘gothic’ necklaces into her 2017 collection. The models with their living dead/zombie makeup, would appear to represent the weak human vessel – the decayed biological shell, with the clothes becoming the ascendancy. This could be why she has broken down the model aesthetics to a sickly look. As mentioned, it is probably a commentary on human fragility. Yet her clothes hold superiority. A risky, yet admirable approach in selling an overall style.