“What makes night within us may leave stars.” Victor Hugo
Yohji Yamamoto as a master designer can show that even the absolute has a mystique. Both the subtle and blunt in particular should be studied. At times the artist will need to move back to boldness. Like the seasons, adaptation, utilizing the spectrum of intricacies and deconstructions of form. For his Y-3 Fall 2017 and Winter 2018 collection it is the choice of a stark postulation – within the darkness. A serious affair, cast of shadows provide a backdrop onto the brutalist concrete runway. First lit with the projection of an artificial swirling tree-line, then light from the dark, as models make their way walking through the after affects of consequences. Determined to move into the light, to walk out of hell.
Strong and purposeful, once again Yamamoto can work the starkness of black, layer and style the achromatic. Master what does not reflect light. A grimness that must be understood and embraced, not rejected. You cannot reject the darkness as it is part of life, as is the light. Dualities that are one in the same. The black is divine because it challenges you to harness the void and make it yours. Yamamoto‘s mastery has achieved this ambivalence with the dark. Open jackets, ‘picked‘ stitch work, clean and efficient clothing. Tough and combat orientated. Baseball caps, beanies, lined and padded jackets. Draped styles that portray a cloak liked sibylline. Broken and fragmented prints of the Earth overlaid as camouflage on some of the pieces. Which would be the Fall 2017 prints for Y-3. Although noted with the Fall range is a single peach coloured sleeveless smock that sits over black pants. Possible a homage to the Japanese folk story Momotarō.
A humanist avant garde style collection. Rebellious and seeking hope from a tumultuous reality, the cycles of bliss and pain. That rather than being at war with our selfs, we should know that our common enemy is the natural construct in it’s entirety. That is our true collective adversary. Undoubtedly Winter 2018 will be a dark for fashion. Which would mean a lot of black, how designers can master the achromatic will be another question. Yohji Yamamoto as a master has shown how it can be achieved.