(Image from the Public Domain all rights to Nili Lotan)
Nili Lotan is an interesting designer. I have seen at times, in relation to fashion reviews of her collections, the term contradiction used. And I can see the reasoning behind that idiom and it’s sentiment, what I will add is the attractiveness of ambiguity. Not confusion. When a lot of emerging designers attempt to shock and awe, they, in most cases misfire in a forgettable and muddled expression. As mentioned, confused and burnt out before they have even begun.
Lotan’s approach is most certainly a respect to New York City styles and yes “Patti Smith” inspired Fall 2017 collection. Which if you know your popular culture history starts in 1975 at the infamous Chelsea Hotel, the sex appeal of menswear, ala blazers, formal pants, ties and shirts. Androgynous styles in reality can only be attained from a female perspective, so the term is misleading in fashion. Women dressing like men, not only holds a rebellious expression, but retains it’s sexual mystique. An early punk rock look that was innovative then, but not now. Still, a very nice collection inspired by the mid 70s with 1980s flavors.