(Images from www.dezeen.com All credit to Gareth Pugh)
Gareth Pugh’s Fall 2017 collection is probably as close as you can get to fashionable sadomasochistic attire. Despite, according to Pugh’s show notes, his theme was in response to the state of the world. More so the changing political environments. However you would be hard pressed to see his Fall 2017 collection as any direct politicized statement, as also stated was Pugh’s direct influence for this show, which can be seen, being the 1974 movie ‘The Night Porter’. A fetish psychosexual drama of an ex concentration camp SS Doctor who had a paradoxical relationship with an female inmate, years later she sees him as a night porter at a Vienna hotel. There is a attraction via the Stockholm syndrome. Thus their sadomasochistic relationship continues. Risqué.
There is an unsettling darkness to this collection. An intricate look into human psychology and influences via cultural dynamics, whether right or wrong. It is by it’s nature an attempt at understanding the horrors of our world. Most reviews that I have read of Pugh’s Fall 2017 show haven’t really understood what was being portrayed. Rather looking at thinly veiled political ‘statements’ as the show-notes would say, only because their knowledge or lack of intuition in regards to the fetish/sadomasochist scenes that used Nazi and/or fascist styling as a sexual cue. You can judge this if you like, but it exists and still can be seen in some of the underground electronic and goth scenes of today.
Gareth Pugh is one of the most talented designers within the fashion industry at this point in time, his attention to details are exceptional. Beautifully cut and fitted clothing, for this collection crafted double breasted long coats and stylized blazers, puffy latex jackets and pants. Stark silhouettes, brutalism architecture and modernist forms. Completed with commandant visor caps and dominatrix aesthetics. Once again, Pugh is experimenting with raw sexual appeal that is cast within power.
A unique, dark and disturbing collection for Gareth Pugh’s Fall 2017.