A sophisticated and futurist take on sleek evening wear, presented as a showcase of asymmetrical cuts, draped styles, challenging as most of the collection is wool based. Which, if a designer utilizes wool as a fabric, for a draped and flowing style it can end up looking dragged and weighed down as a presentation. Especially if the designer uses a weighted yarn. Unfortunately a majority of this collection has that feel, whether creative director Julien Dossena was trying to show a contemporary and unique take on a polished corporate style, over draping heavy fabrics, like wool, will create a heavier impression – which is far from a flowing, sophisticated ‘power’ style. Stand outs were the silk pants, and some of the tighter sports lightweight yarn wool tops. Dossena dabbled in one of my favorite underutilized colours in fashion which is midnight-green, which can be seen on several of the pieces for his Paris show. There is of course Paco Rabanne’s stylized aluminum chain mail dresses, as mentioned, crafted into a asymmetrical collection. A honed and established technique from the label, beautifully cut and styled by Dossena for Rabanne’s Fall 2017 collection.
Also noted was the balanced cream/white silk dresses with pixeled patterns, sporty styles which hold a urban future aesthetic. These held, in my opinion, more of an appeal rather than the heavy knitted wool styles.