(Images from Alessandro Lucioni /Alessandro Lucioni/IMAXTREE.COM via nymag.com)
Creative director Dong–Jun Kang‘s first London showcasing for his Spring 2018 collection proves D.Gnak’s versatility in moving into European markets, away from an extensive Asian presence. A talented and stalwart designer who has established a very unique Korean take on the Avant-garde. In respect to adherents of Yohji Yamamoto’s huge presence in Asia, more so Japan. It is prudent that Eastern fashion designers source their own distinction as clothing brands. Which is not to duplicate others. D.Gnak is able to hold that original dynamic as an established fashion house based in South Korea. Kang’s Spring Summer 2018 collection is, as noted from past shows, tailored and fitted well on the models, revealing further proof that Kang’s debut at London Fashion week holds the weight needed for D.Gnak to ensure it’s expression of his unique style – with it’s duality of Eastern Taoist beliefs of two opposites that makes the whole. As noted in D.Gnak. Spring/Summer 2017 – Seoul Fashion Week , it is Kang’s respect to his South Korean heritage, which can also be see on the flag of South Korea, Taoism and the Tao Te Ching. It is the “inevitable interaction” of the Ying and Yang. The merging of Eastern and Western aesthetics.
For D.Gnak’s SS 2018 collection, there is an obvious starkness of black and it’s achromatic void seen as the first part of this collection, reworked wool blazers and de-constructed suits. This is Kang melding the Eastern and Western urban styles. City wear in an overcrowded (post-globalism) metropolis, a uniqueness that holds an original UK punk look. It bears similarities to Malcolm Mclaren and Vivienne Westwood’s 1976 ‘Sex shop’ 41 years ago. Belt straps and the ‘fashion’ accessory of bondage influences, all the while remodeling formal wear without disrespecting it. Deep gold yellow representing the balance of Yin and Yang. Promoted as long coats with a street styled aspect, once again a contemporary urban look. Portraying a smart, sleek and resilient style. Kang has also used yellow as a color against black, from a Western perspective within the color spectrum – yellow is seen before any other colors against the non reflective black. When combined it represents a warning.
Beige and White, with dashes of red, as the completion D.Gnak’s Spring Summer 2018 collection for London Fashion week. An encompassing tribute to Eastern Taoist philosophical and it’s heritage fusing it’s dualities within Western (early) punk aesthetics. A respectful acknowledgement from Dong-Jun Kang to the city that is your host.