(Images: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv via Vogue.com.)
Being a master designer like Yohji Yamamoto there is at times a worn out disposition, having a brand that works within three separate dynamics. Each aspect carrying the Yamamoto design imprint. To maintain it’s integral aesthetics would be hard – even for a master like Yamamoto. The main signature label (Yohji Yamamoto), Y’s, his women’s designer brand and Y-3, the collaboration with the sportswear corporate giant Adidas. At some point, one or the other of the creative spread will be diluted in it’s creativity. This would be his collaboration with Adidas.
“Street wear” to save face, as a term that evolved out of the skateboard scene of the late 1980s when it merged with hiphop, is to mature it. The adolescent sellable looks which dominated sports/street markets for the last twenty years, were able to maintain this lack of maturity and it’s aspirations of the sports star and drug dealer (or a combination of both). The tedium only works within the boundaries of the neurotic child. Unfortunately after a 15 year relationship with Adidas, Yohji Yamamoto, who on many occasions has been able with Y-3, to create a discernible, mature and at times the risque as far as reworking basic ‘street’ style or sports looks under a corporate banner. Unfortunately, with this SS2018 collection, he has succumb to the basic, the boring and the tedious of sports/street wear with his 15 yr celebration as a designer for Y-3.
Y-3 men’s Spring Summer 2018 holds a array of basic cuts and styles with Adidas stripes galore. A fusion of stripped down 80s hiphop styles and basketball court looks. Nothing groundbreaking or remotely striking. What does work, which has in the past, is Yamamoto’s styled blazers, jackets and draped style shirts and one piece dresses. Also his print designer Taishi Hayashi unique palm designs. But, this has been done many times before with previous Y-3 shows.