(Images: Yannis Vlamos for Vogue.com. All rights)
I created a term called Xeno-Structuralism, it actually was or is a manifesto devised by a character in my last book “Cataclysmal“. Although not directly linked to the designers such as Iris van Herpen. The idea behind a designer manifesto is the development of an Xeno (alien) or futurist concept within our current structure of reality. As we may never know or witness Extraterrestrial life and the possibility of future worlds. Van Herpen as a fashion designer, within her own personal philosophy of aesthetics, is years ahead of anybody else in the fashion industry. And now Van Herpen on her 10th year anniversary as a designer for her signature brand, she has successfully established her pioneering 3D printing and unique laser cut styles.
This is what Haute Couture represents, precision fashion, intricate and detailed work; that now within contemporary futurist perspectives allows the use of new technologies to hone couture as a fashion category. For Iris van Herpen’s Fall 2017 her use of 3D printing, laser cutting, moiré techniques and silicone injected filaments have elevated her further into the realms of parallel worlds of past, present and future – that is the Xeno-Structuralist. While at the same time, within our reality, she knows how to set the stage to create a fashion show that merges performance with art. A dark futuristic feel within it’s alien appeal as submerged musicians in encased tanks of water resonate a cosmic ambiance.
Conjoined wave like patterns, from white symmetrical dresses with their interlocking motifs to miniskirt one-piece styles printed in a 3D overlay – almost bone like and delicate. With similarities, in particular the long flowing dresses, to 1920 art deco gowns. Laser cut silver (metal) moiré styles set into a complete one piece ensemble, and intricate geometric jewelery inspired shapes, woven onto a draped white gown – while two of the closing pieces, with the same geometric silver ornaments, encase the models within a linked cosmic web. All exhibit a futuristic elegance.