Tobias Birk Nielsen. Autumn/Winter 2017/2018 – VIOLENT SITUATIONS (overview)



(Images from

I have just recently heard of Tobias Birk Nielsen, from what is described on the designer’s website bio:  “TOBIAS BIRK NIELSEN FOUNDED IN 2016.  BY FORMER BORIS BIDJAN SABERI, BARCELONA & WOOD WOOD, COPENHAGEN JUNIOR DESIGNER”  Which is apparent as the main influences seen with Nielsen’s collections are from the designer Boris Bidjan Saberi’s (for all my reviews re: Boris Bidjan Saberi please refer stylized take on science fiction and post globalism aesthetics, with his fashion inspired vision of a compressed urban dystopia – and the new fashions that will evolve, motivated by it’s city landscapes.   Nielsen, with his Autumn/Winter 2017/2018 collection has followed suit to the Saberi theme.

Titled ‘Violent Situations’, Tobias Birk Nielsen has created a visual and sociological analysis, via fashion in relation to violence.  And since, the aspects of violence within our society has become more pronounced, more so from religious extremism, through to the polarization of global discord, which can be attributed as a failure to rein in over-expansive governments.  The overall systemic break down of a globalised society is all but inevitable.  To be replaced by the individual and his/her quest to survive .  The ‘Violent Situations’ collection, from what I can see, holds that focused style of the survivalist.  Hoddies, coats and vests adored with a monochromatic patchwork (photographs) – which works very well on coats and jackets.  As it creates an ambiguity with it’s obscured imagery, set as a backdrop to the clothing piece.   The color palette, apart from the camouflage, for this collection, once again, holds a Boris Bidjan Saberi influence with it’s neutral and achromatic colors.

A solid beginning for Tobias Birk Nielsen, overtime, hopefully, the young designer will develop the originality and distinction that a fashion designer needs, to offset the inundation of so many clothing brands – that on the most part lack originality.

*As a side note, seen on Kaltblunt magazine, was the accompanying Prolog for the ‘Violent Situations’ collection.  Which I though was very well written.



Quote/s: Ikkyū Sōjun


(Image of Ikkyū Sōjun (1394-1481). By Kawanabe Kyōsai d1889.  Picture from All Rights)

Ikkyu passed away in 1481 at the age of 87.  He died peacefully while seated in an meditative posture.  Before he passed away he told his disciples at the time:

After I’m gone, some of you will seclude yourselves
in the forests and mountains to meditate, while others may
drink rice wine and enjoy the company of women. Both kinds
of Zen are fine, but if some become professional clerics,
babbling about “Zen as the Way,” they are my enemies.

“SATRAN KAEVON” (Adrian Glass)

My latest book that describes, within the correlation of events and time-lines of history, the stock market crash of 1987 (October 19th) known as “Black Monday”.

The anniversary is today.

If speculatively time-lines cross and reality becomes transfused with past and future realities.  Do we repeat events?

The Universe and it’s destructive allure


The very act of observing disturbs the system.”  Werner Heisenberg

There has been a recent discovery of a new gravity wave (a ripple in Space time), detected by the Laser Interferometer Gravitational-Wave Observatory and confirmed with the Chandra x-ray space telescope.   The source of this gravity wave ‘event’ was two Neutron stars colliding, which created what is described as a Kilonova.

A Neutron star by it’s definition, is the core remnants of a giant star that has blown off it’s outta layers, in other words it explodes, leaving the small and extremely dense core as a compressed star, albeit fainter, but extremely disruptive in the sense it’s core density spins at an incredible rate, which in turns creates a gravitational binding energy of extreme gravity.  A single, small Neutron star can shred and tear apart planets and larger stars within it’s vicinity.  So, you can imagine what would happen if these two of small hyper active destroyers collide.  As mentioned, it sends out a ripple through out the Universe.   A distortion of the fabric of Space time.

It is known that NASA colour what we see with the Hubble’s digital images of Galaxies, Nebula clouds and Supernova’s which are all black and white, the use of colour as discussed in my blog post Art: “Defy actuality” doesn’t exist to the human eye within the Universe, what may exist in very faint details are reds and blues.  Bright red hues as seen as stars that emit in red wavelengths and blue stars in ultraviolet.  It is not a “nursery” of colorful brilliance, we add that human fixture or desire to beautify something.  As the Universe viewed without it’s added colours by us, may not exude what we define as beautiful.

From a philosophical perspective, in light of our growing knowledge of a Universe, that in all retrospect is a violent and destructive entity.  Is how do we define a Universe as anything of actual beauty?   The serene and magnificence of the stars and planets of the Milky Way seen observed from our own planet, in someways is misleading to what the cosmos entails.  It is rather, a cold, radiated vacuum of mostly dead planets, violent stars and black holes.  What we mostly view as ‘events’ from Earth within the Universe is violence, exploding stars that become Supernovas, Gamma Ray Bursts which have caused mass extinctions on Earth, Black Holes that in all astrophysical science defy purpose – except to destroy.   The latest event, which is significant, being the two Neutron stars colliding.

The Universe maintains it’s eternal destructive force, that as an alluring and scientific fascination.  Also provides us, the human race, more perspectives on what it means for life and it’s rarity in the cosmos.


Adrian Glass

Author of “Cataclysmal” (2017)

Ilaria Nistri Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear. Milan Fashion Week (overview)





(Images from via Ilaria Nistri.  All rights.)

I have always admired Ilaria Nistri‘s designs, which are reflected with her distinctly original patterns and unique approach –  a mix of Italian influenced Ready-to-Wear styles, mixed with her own take on the Avant-garde.  With her predominant fixed look of wide hemmed pants, that at times portrays a flowing and easy style, it is often paired with shirts, coats and jackets which are aligned with the asymmetrical cuts and draped characteristics – which all delineate towards the Avant-garde, as a method of design that places emphasis on it’s extreme contrasts or dualities within fashion.  This could also be noted with her use of mostly neutral color palette of taupe, olive, ivory and grays.   Contrasted against the achromatic of black and white, with a lite mix of reds, purple, blues and (vibrant) greens.

Ilaria Nistri Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear remains affixed to what maintains the brand’s idiosyncratic appeal.  And array of unique RTW looks mixed with risqué styles, tie-dyes that have a dark and sombre allure, embossed and textured leathers seen on shorts, pants and coats.  Draped cotton, linen pants and skirts, also noted is Nistri’s use of silk as overlay and underlay garments.

Ilaria Nistri has set a precedence in establishing a bench mark that is truly her own individuality in design.  More so in fashion design, as when momentum is broken, which is seen notably with the newer designers as they attempt to sell into global markets.   It is the core ideas and structure that you build upon.  Nistri has achieved this extremely well, which I’ll also add she has keep a lower profile within the industry.  This in turn has helped create an ambiguity and obscurity for Ilaria Nistri, a refreshing perspective especially in an inundated world that is filled with too many fashion brands.


For all my Ilaria Nistri overviews please refer:






A.Glass updates and insight (96)




  • I have a new book due end of the year, it will be a stand alone short story.



Some people and their sentiments that I find inspiring: The hedonism and freethinking of Zen master Ikkyū Sōjun (1394-1481),  Mina Loy’s “Futurism Manifesto (1913)” ,  Mark Twain’s “The Mysterious Stranger”.  The Philosopher Albert Camus (d1960) embracing of the absurd and it’s nihilism within life, which in turn makes this present time better.  The late physicists Niels Bohr and Werner Heisenberg for their contributions to Quantum physics and their cynicism of a deterministic Universe.