Ann Demeulemeester Ready-to-Wear Fall 2018. Paris Fashion Week


(Images from

“…And in my dream methought I went
To search out what might there be found;
And what the sweet bird’s trouble meant,
That thus lay fluttering on the ground.
I went and peered, and could descry
No cause for her distressful cry;
But yet for her dear lady’s sake
I stooped, methought, the dove to take,
When lo! I saw a bright green snake
Coiled around its wings and neck.
Green as the herbs on which it couched,
Close by the dove’s its head it crouched;
And with the dove it heaves and stirs,
Swelling its neck as she swelled hers!
I woke; it was the midnight hour,
The clock was echoing in the tower;
But though my slumber was gone by,
This dream it would not pass away—
It seems to live upon my eye!”
(Christabel  by Samuel Taylor Coleridge, 1797/1800


Sébastien Meunier for Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear  maintains the dark and brooding that is the Gothic and romantic stylization which as discussed in my review of Ann Demeulemeester men’s Fall 2018,  Meunier has sourced the inspiration of William Blake and the like (Lord Byron), that offered a very well rounded perspective of rebellion.  And it is a humanist rebellion, rather than a divisiveness which is the common aliment within its conception of todays populous, man against woman, woman against man, man against nature, nature against man and woman.  A vexed and stressed reality that does not have to be that way.  Even though we shouldn’t dwell on the past, there are  at times an inspiring  aspect that holds its roots within our creativity which in turn always gives insight into the human psyche.  Aspects of Romanticism and Gothic literature of yesteryear explored the darker regions of our fears, joys, pleasure and pain.  Which is, as Friedrich Nietzsche once stated, “Human, All Too Human.”

Meunier has described that from the “innocence” of the Fall 2018 men’s collection, he wanted to exude, with this female collection,  more of an “experience”, to me, it appears that experience is the desirability of the Femme Fatale.  Despite this Fall 2018 collection for Ann Demeulemeester drawing from the influences of the darker Gothic aspects of Mary Shelley’s writings.  The fatal woman, which by its definition is a contemporary term, encapsulated via the poem by Samuel Taylor Coleridge (D1834) one of the founders of the early Romanticism movement that inscribes the story of Christabel and her encounter of the mysterious demonic female character Geraldine.

Ann Demeulemeester Ready-to-Wear Fall 2018 is one the most dark and intense collections from creative director Sébastien Meunier , it has a vampiric appeal, with its cold and dark embrace, that paradoxically, represents the deathly chill of the female supernatural which also can be seen as comfort within a morbid encounter, despite it appearing inhuman, it is still the antihero.  And of course as mentioned, the antihero from a feminine perspective is the Fatal women.  A killer.

Mostly fine wool blends, leather.  Sleek and streamlined styles, layered with achromatic dualities of black and white,  as white reflects light and black absorbs.  There is a warrior pose in some of the collections, with reinforced leather corsets and sabre style elbow cloves.  Beautifully textured cotton and lyocell sheer tops, draped and fitted with precision over the models.

A stunning collection.



Stephen Hawking. 14th March 2018



You have transcended.  Left for all, the knowledge that is pure of the human endurance.  The light in the darkness, in this life, within the cosmos.  It is eternal.  Such is the human being, unique, fragile.  Strong and weak, brave and fearful.  Our bliss and loss.  To live and to become, to learn and create.  To conquer our fears and to be strong, we overcome what weakens us,  so that we are significant in this Universe, as it is ours to understand.  But never to grasp.   It is when we let go and fall into the oceans of knowledge.  We become one within.  We become fearless.  

As we return to the original state.

To dream.



Adrian Glass


Situationist Ready-to-Wear Fall 2018. Paris Fashion Week (overview)

Situationist RTW Fall 2018Situationist RTW Fall 2018Situationist RTW Fall 2018Situationist RTW Fall 2018

(Images from WWD)

Irakli Rusadze as the creative director for Situationist, despite being a young fashion designer.  It is also inspiring to what it means in committing hard work, dedication and attention to detail with his designs.  This has allowed Rusadze to achieve an outcome that is unique and distinct in its originality.  Which is very rare these days.  For moments in time, to create and build a brand such as Situationist shows a enduring resilience in maintaining a fashion brand in a world inundated with fashion and design.

The tailoring is superb, cuts and fits all achieved with a preciseness and by hand too.  You can tell, it is a process that is uniquely human engineered, although I am not against laser and machine precision cuts and automated based machinery which pieces clothing together.  As most of the conglomerate fashion brands use a more technologically automated approach in clothing design.    Crafting looks and honing those skills, can only be achieved from the ground level.   Studying form, establishing a style and maintaining direction.  All traits which Rusadze has implemented with Situationist.

Keeping in line Rusadze’s recognizable Situationist blazers, leather draped jackets and skirts.  The Eastern European directness in style can be seen.  Intermixed with aesthetics that at times soften the collection.  Cotton, wool and leather.  Fitted and portrayed exceptionally well within an art gallery setting.


For all my previous Situationist overviews please refer to this link

Small to micro satellites lead the new Space-race mixed with unauthorized launches.


(A satellite the size of a showbox.  Image from Bloomberg)

As discussed in my article The soon-to-be commercial ‘Space Race’ may entail that more junk will be sent into Space the launch of a billionaire’s very expensive electric car, that in reality an environmental conscious ‘poor’ people (that is pretty much everyone) may not be able to afford to ween off the barbarism of the Middle East and revel in an environmentalist euphoria in support of  the electric car.  The space car at this point, although it was never intended to hit Mars, in its ad hoc and irresponsible advertising stunt, is on its way to the asteroid belts of our Solar System.  It will be destroyed at some point (via the possible trillions of asteroids in those regions), as the Cosmos in its design,  will attempt to remodel anything of weak design, that may have formed from intelligent life.   A remodeling that eventually turns it into a space debris or better known as “junk”

So, with my critique of childish superficiality of utilizing space as an advertising stunt with what could have been sent into Space (monuments of human endurance) was missed on this occasion.

The new Space race which has begun in gusto not seen since the first superpower space race that occurred within the last cold war over fifty years ago.  In this flux of digital connectivity with its Potemkin villages, the assumption could be viewed at times that all is well.  It’s not.  We have a new cold war which entails that there is also a new nuke arms race erringly similar to to the past.   Space,  that is also considered cold war territory, which in turn has the interests of all the major superpowers to have a dominance over, thus, with SpaceX leading the charge in its ability to deliver anything into outer space, more so to our very crowded lower and upper atmospheres.  Private Space companies will also offer the service, this may extend to security contract firms who are developing smaller and more advanced communication satellites.  A space race to build Space-internet networks, that could, say in a major conflict on Earth, be the last bastion of communication and global positioning systems.

Except, as noted in my previous article.  This will lead to a further deregulation of the Space industry, that will lead to increases in the amount of unauthorized launches into space of various communication satellites from private companies.

From the Register article 9th March 2018

The Federal Communication Commission (FCC) has pulled permission from Silicon Valley startup Swarm Technologies to launch four satellites into space after what it says was an “apparent unauthorized launch” back in January.

According to IEEE Spectrum, that unauthorized launch consisted of four experimental satellites that the FCC had decided were too small to be noticed in space – and hence pose an unacceptable risk of collision – but which the company may have launched anyway, using a rocket based in India.

The federal regulator has sent a stern letter [PDF] to Swarm withdrawing its permission to launch four new, larger version of its “SpaceBee” satellites while it looks into events.

“The grant for STA 0026‐EX‐ST‐2018 has been set aside and is now in a pending status for further review,” an email from the head of the FCC’s Experimental Licensing Branch, Anthony Serafini, to Swarm’s owners reads. “The International Bureau requested that the grant be set aside in order to permit assessment of the impact of the applicant’s apparent unauthorized launch and operation of four satellites, and related statements and representations, on its qualifications to be a Commission licensee. “

The launch under scrutiny carried a range of satellites but while Indian space agency ISRO lists all those satellites and their owners, the four “two-way satellite communications and data relay” devices in question are anonymous.


…The idea behind the mini-satellites – which the company proudly calls “the world’s smallest two-way communications satellites” – is to create an internet-of-things network in outer space.

Swarm envisions many, smaller and cheaper satellites circling the globe and providing tracking for billions of devices on the ground. The National Science Foundation has even given the company grants to pursue its plans.

The company is run by people with an impressive track record of space-related engineering, and, according to the space biz, several very large corporations and the US military have expressed an interest.

Voids of the Elysium (Adrian Glass 2017)

Quote from Voids of the Elysium available on Amazon:

“…Eli smiles. “Please, sit. You would only be here if something is genuinely troubling my rebellions ex-pupil.” Noting Xael’s robes that although she follows the traditional attire, she has altered aspects of the the robe, draping into a more layered look. A darkened gray with geometrical shapes which rest on the shoulders, styled in a crimson embroidery.
Xael sits as does Master Eli, both of them sitting down onto specifically designed Void Temple chairs, which support and straighten the neck and back, that are also used for deep meditation.
A hooded and robed student places down a pot of tea with an accompanying pair of small metallic cups in front of the two masters of the Void Temple.
“A person has been coming to my temple…”

The soon-to-be commercial ‘Space Race’ may entail that more junk will be sent into Space.


In my article (Feb 8th 2018) “Is the ‘new’ Space Race and exploration now becoming an Absurdity”  it was referenced, as a point of view, that the newly manifested Space race may eventuate into an absurd situation as the all out commercialization of space begins in earnest – after the successful launch of the Falcon heavy launch rocket, but more so Elon Musk’s promotional stunt in sending a $200,000 electrical car into space.   With fears emerging from astrobiologists and other scientists that the Tesla ‘Starman’ car is riddled with Earth bacteria, please also refer to my May 16 2017 article  “Planetary Protection” Advocacy groups may cause more damage than good.”  These fears may also be overblown, with most planets in our Solar System hostile to all life including bacterial, particularly Mars (unless buried deep into the crust of the planet) due to extreme Ultraviolet radiation.   It is more concerning of the complete deregulation of private space programs which maybe in the line of sight for the Trump administration, to open up space as a broad private enterprise, which will remove aspects of specific regulation for space exploration, that in turn may lead to more reckless aspects within the private space programs.  This maybe the first step in the eventual funding cuts to not only NASA but the International Space Station.  The fears of Earth borne bacterial contamination to other planets, in my opinion, is not high on the list of space exploration concerns.

So, the recklessness of ‘companies’ all lining up to be part of the new Space race means more junk littered around the Earth, which will remain a threatening aspect to space programs and future exploration within our Solar System.

From the BBC Feb 2018  article re: Space Rubbish

In early February 2018 in Vienna, during the United Nations’ 55th Session of the Scientific and Technical Subcommittee Committee on the Peaceful Uses of Outer Space, Liou presented an update on the space debris environment and the US space agency’s operations and research. In 2017 alone, 86 launches around the world placed more than 400 spacecraft into orbit around the Earth.

The total amount of material in Earth orbit is more than 7,600 tonnes,” Liou says. “About 23,000 large objects are being tracked by the US Strategic Command’s Space Surveillance Network (SSN). In addition, there are tens of millions or more debris too small to be tracked by the SSN but still large enough to threaten human spaceflight and robotic missions…

Also from the same article

“…The amount of debris escalated sharply in 2007 when China deliberately destroyed its Fengyun-1C weather satellite as part of an anti-satellite device test. Two years later an American Iridium 33 communications satellite collided with a spent Russian Cosmos 2251 spacecraft. Both these incidents will have ramifications for some time.

Last year, Nasa was involved in 21 collision avoidance manoeuvres by uncrewed spacecraft. Four were to avoid debris from Fengyun-1C; two to avoid parts from the Iridium 33-Cosmos 2251 collision.

Moving an object out of the way by altering its orbit is one method of diverting a potential crash, but the sheer amount of debris requires constant observation and prediction – by any means necessary.

“Nasa uses a combination of radars, telescopes, and in-situ measurements to monitor, but not track, objects down to sub-millimetre in size,” says Liou.”


A.Glass updates and insight (101)



  • A new print will be framed soon “Dystopic of the Prodigious”.  Test print is available to see via this link