Rick Owens RTW Fall 2017 review – Paris






(Images.  Vogue, Nymag.  All credit to Rick Owens)

Rick Owens is restless as a designer. A peak in creativity has been reached and he is trying to break through – to move forward, I see influences here for ready-to-wear 2017 that are as clear as day.  Yes, the ceremonial aspect, but not the rigidity of mainstream religions. The ceremonies of divinity that is humanist in it’s appeal. Spiritually significant to the ambiguous. What do you think of that? A designer who holds a degree of power attempting to write a testament. This is a personal journey into the spiritual realm. Take that as you may. For me, it also oozes with the conceptual art of *Brian Pennington’s origination, whether it is a direct influence or not. The desire to emulate aesthetic and/or religious idealism from science fiction and it’s speculative conceptualization lies significantly in Frank Herbert’s ‘Dune’ book covers…

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Black Holes can erase the past, with no future predetermined.

From a philosophical perspective I do not follow the purely deterministic Universe and/or the block universe which asserts that time runs from the past as does the future, therefor there is no essential moment in time and one cannot detach now-time from past and future events, as it is an accumulation of past and futures that have been all predetermined – which make up our observations of the self and the Universe around us.  These theorized assertions started with Isaac Newton which were later transfused to Albert Einstein who was able to formulate the equations of Special Relativity, which in turn began to fuse and synchronize the earlier observations of the Universe into what Einstein was able to portray in detailed and precise equations that we live in a deterministic Universal structure.  The problem with that theory, which, from an explanation of any current physicists (who subscribe to the deterministic and block Universe theory as decreed by Einstein).  Is that we still cannot explain Black Holes.  A pet hate of the famed physicist, who didn’t believe they should exist at all.   As their very existence in what we deem within an observable Universe have the potential to rewrite all known physics.

Article from Science Daily https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2018/02/180221091334.htm

In the real world, your past uniquely determines your future. If a physicist knows how the universe starts out, she can calculate its future for all time and all space.

But a UC Berkeley mathematician has found some types of black holes in which this law breaks down. If someone were to venture into one of these relatively benign black holes, they could survive, but their past would be obliterated and they could have an infinite number of possible futures.

Such claims have been made in the past, and physicists have invoked “strong cosmic censorship” to explain it away. That is, something catastrophic — typically a horrible death — would prevent observers from actually entering a region of spacetime where their future was not uniquely determined. This principle, first proposed 40 years ago by physicist Roger Penrose, keeps sacrosanct an idea — determinism — key to any physical theory. That is, given the past and present, the physical laws of the universe do not allow more than one possible future.”

Using the hypothetical ‘Charged’ non rotating Black Hole theorem as a benchmark to calculate against what is already known as rotating black holes.

…Admittedly, he said, charged black holes are unlikely to exist, since they’d attract oppositely charged matter until they became neutral. However, the mathematical solutions for charged black holes are used as proxies for what would happen inside rotating black holes, which are probably the norm. Hintz argues that smooth, rotating black holes, called Kerr-Newman-de Sitter black holes, would behave the same way.

“That is upsetting, the idea that you could set out with an electrically charged star that undergoes collapse to a black hole, and then Alice travels inside this black hole and if the black hole parameters are sufficiently extremal, it could be that she can just cross the Cauchy horizon, survives that and reaches a region of the universe where knowing the complete initial state of the star, she will not be able to say what is going to happen,” Hintz said. “It is no longer uniquely determined by full knowledge of the initial conditions. That is why it’s very troublesome.


Y3 men’s Fall 2018 – Paris Fashion Week



(Images from Vogue.com)

The question of duality or dualism with Yohji Yamamoto  is portrayed once again within his new Y3 Fall 2018 collection.  But, as noted, in my review of Yamamoto’s Paris Fall 2018 Men’s, it is seen more as a tense perspective in its collaboration between the fashion designer and the conglomerate which is the brand Adidas.   One, being the mastery and significance of Yohji Yamamoto as a designer, the other being an entity, a company structure that has no individual bases for creativity.   Yet will partner with fashion designers as selling points and offer widespread distribution, as opposed to an exclusive signature designer brand.  Hence Y3, in fashion at this point in time you couldn’t have a more dualistic paring.  I have been reviewing Y3 shows for over five years and I have seen the subtle, sometimes blunt, tug-a-war with the Yamamoto styles inter-fused with…

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Bodhidharma and Dazu Huike (part one)


(Huike offering his severed arm to Bodhidharma.  As an offering to be trained by the Master.)

Probably one of the most interesting and myth based characters of early Buddhism in China is the monk Bodhidharma who was originally from India, described as”The Blue-Eyed Barbarian“, brought a version of Buddhism known as Ch’an to mainland China, which was not entirely influenced by Chinese Taoism of the time, but rather it fused its direct connection to the Mayan sultra Laṅkāvatāra Sūtra which was essentially the doctrine that described emptiness and stillness as the highest aspects of the human mind, thus deep mediation is encouraged as noted by what the  Laṅkāvatāra Sūtra describes as “mind-only” that there is only the “void:  translated (summary) as:

“…he must recognise and be convinced that all things are to be regarded as forms seen in a vision and a dream, empty of substance, un-born and without self-nature; that all things exist only by reason of a complicated network of causation… As to the third; he must recognise and patiently accept the fact that his own mind and personality is also mind-constructed, that it is empty of substance, unborn and egoless…”

This was stressed as the building blocks of Ch’an and Zen Buddhism, the clarity of thoughts with no thoughts.  The unborn and original mind has to be sourced from the still mind, in a practice emptying and filling the mind at the same time.  All actions processed with a detachment of burden.  Bodhidharma if legend is correct, isolated himself in a cave for nine years meditating in the direction of the inner cave wall.   What is significant and impressive about this feat, is, if looked at from a discipline of understanding reality one should not be consumed by it, in other words essentially turning your back on reality (time) and its past and futures.  In meditation you can control time by lessening its imprint on the mind.  That was essential for the cultivation of the early Ch’an philosophy of Buddhism.  To live in now-time, not to seek what is not there, as that will lead to delusions.  To what Bodhidharma was quoted in saying:

. . . the fools of this world prefer to look for sages far away.  They don’t believe that the wisdom of their own mind is the sage . . . the sutras say, “Mind is the teaching.” But people of no understanding don’t believe in their own mind or that by understanding this teaching they can become a sage.  They prefer to look for distant knowledge and long for things in space…

These early reported sayings from the 5th Century Monk, were important in leading into the establishments of Ch’an Buddhism which later morphed into what is known as Japanese Zen Buddhism.  It is the tampering down the wandering mind, that one could see all they need to within, but they could also see what is within the outside and see it as the same.  From the stars in the night sky to the flower in a field.  This is the removal of dualities whilst  remaining still that is within now.  The self is then contented and time does not become the burden of the mind.   “Within” is used, as a guide, that everything can be found within the self.  Not to be seeked from beyond that cannot be reached.

The famous image of Bodhidharma as the 1st Patriarch of Ch’an Buddhism sitting within the cave, with his soon-to-be 2nd Patriarch Dazu Huike standing outside, in an apparent pleading to be taught by the Master Bodhidharma, within its legend, Huike cuts off his left arm and offers it to Bodhidharma as a sign of devotion to the Master.  What is interesting about this image, you can see the tension between the two as the Master and the need of an aspiring pupil , whether myth or not,  it is Bodhidharma who does not turn and face Huike, but rather has him stand there in the snow at the entrance of the cave.  It is a strained and powerful image of Master and Student, viewed as the filtering of who would be capable in developing and teaching the Ch’an philosophy throughout 5th and 6th Century China.  Later within the history of Bodhidharma,  Huike does eventually become a disciple of this charismatic and powerful Indian Monk, who later, after an incredibly simple, yet poignant ceremony in which Bodhidharma is to choose from his five disciples  who will take his rob and bowl, a traditional observance of the student which in turn will replace the Master.  As one of those five disciples was the persistent devotee Dazu Huike, that after Bodhidharma asked each of his pupils of what they were to say to demonstrate their understanding of his teachings.   With each verbal answer, Bodhidharma would reply with analogy that they have received his physical essence, from which it would be his skin, flesh and bones.  It was Huike who stepped forward in front of the Master who then bowed in silence, stood up straight to which Bodhidharma says “you have attained my marrow.”  From that point Dazu Huike becomes the 2nd Patriarch of Ch’an Buddhism.

A significant historic milestone in the beginnings of Ch’an in China which and in a lot of ways Dazu Huike emanates this charismatic, mysterious and possible flawed and troubled figure who within his legacy was able to perpetuated and spread the importance of what we now know as Zen.


Rick Owens men’s Fall 2018 – Paris Fashion Week



(Images Vogue.com)

Rick Owens Fall 2018 collection is the most direct and intense to date.  Moving away from the light on spectrum and serenity from previous shows (although the militaristic and survivalist edge was seen at his Spring Summer 2017 show), there is more anger here.  But, as an interesting aspect and study of anger it becomes a conditioning and awareness of the turmoil of life, whether manifested from the self or observed as the external.   It is at times the futility of existence and its creative expressions which feels endless in its burden, such is Owen’s Fall 2018 collection titled “Sisyphus” after the Greek myth of the king that attempted to trick the Gods.  His punishment in the underworld of Hades, was to roll a boulder up a hill, only to have it tumble back down, in its vain attempt again ad infinitum.  A punishment of frustration…

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The Ceres “Pyramid”



The dwarf planet Ceres discovered by Giuseppe Piazzi in 1596, a Catholic priest from the Academy of Palermo, described Ceres as a slow moving comet, he later thought that there was something vastly more interesting (although not sure what its eventual classification would be) about this small “star”.  Later observations by fellow astronomers of the time had realigned Piazzi’s assertion that Ceres orbits between Mars and Jupiter’s trajectory, therefore it was not seen as a comet.  It was later classified as a small planet (or dwarf planet) of our Solar System.

In 2007 the NASA spacecraft DAWN was launched to observe the so called proto planets Vesta and Ceres, honing its sights on Ceres in 2015 the probe was able to capture the amazing details of this Dwarf Planet, more so the illuminated salt deposits (crystallized sodium carbonate) and the now infamous Pyramid of Ceres known as Ahuna Mons. Which shows the hallmarks of a volcanic structure (not alien).  My amateurish guess is that it will erupt at some point, disperse its internal contents of evaporated ice in a climatic spasm.

A.F. Vandevorst Spring Couture 2018 – Paris Fashion Week (overview)



(Images from WWD/Vogue)

Since An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx first presented their original and very unique take on industrial/medical hospital fetishes, seen as their first Spring Summer show in 1999 with models been displayed on beds and the runway set up to be a hospital ward.  The ground breaking and stalwart uniqueness of the A.F Vandevorst brand continues on twenty years later.    With their 20th year anniversary show for Spring Couture 2018,  they’ve projected a mix of every runway show since 1999.  Which is of Vandevorst and Arickx’s eclectic and innovative projections which are undeniable, as is their exceptional styling.

In all of the cultural declines within the last twenty years,  it has been the plundering or directly copying the past for ideas as, on a sociological and psychological  level, popular culture and society remains trapped in a negative paradox, in which they cannot project or is in fear of…

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